Spam from Outer Space

Particulars
Outer Space, Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth, Washington

Difficulty: About seven pitches of rock climbing – you should be able to do this in a day with no problem. The most difficult is the 5.9 traverse.

Appeal: this climb has been called the best rock climb in Washington State. From Two Tree Ledge upward it is a lot of fun. The 5.9 traverse is a great pumpy challenge. Right on its heals is some easier but still interesting ground. Then, come two pitches up the Shield on the sweetest hand crack with lots of chicken heads for your feet. This is definitely not to be missed.

{need picture}
Spam
Friday afternoon:
Chris and I headed up to the make-believe Bavarian village of Leavenworth this afternoon. It is a six hour drive from Portland, OR. We parked our cars at the Snow Creek trail-head just over four miles from Leavenworth. From there, we hiked about two miles and made a camp near the creek where a climber’s trail leads off to the base of Snow Creek Wall. During the night a wind storm sprang up and dead trees from an old burn in the area came crashing down all around. We calculated the odds of getting hit by one of them was probably pretty small so we snuggled into our sleeping bags and got as much sleep as we could. Daylight brought calm and we were filled with excitement over the prospect of our climb.

We hiked up the climber’s trail to the base of the wall and found the start of the climb without any difficulty. I led off and we simo-climbed the low fifth class pitches up to Two Tree Ledge. Here is a choice: a 5.8 crack on the left or a 5.9 crack a few feet to the right. Having been smoked on the polished 5.9 version before, I suggested trying the left side. Chris obliged then did the 5.9 traverse with aplomb. I found the traverse to be rather reachy and balancy and pumpy and just a bit exposed. I only notice the exposure when I worry I might be hanging (literally) in it at any second in the future. However, I managed to get past it without letting on to Chris. I got the next lead and wandered up around a corner to a place where I could find a belay about half-way to the Pedestal. Rope drag is the killer here. Chris continued the lead from the Pedestal to Library Ledge. This pitch gets about half-way up the Shield. The Shield is a big expanse of granite covered with chicken heads that make great holds. Going up this crack entails moving from one excellent hand jam to the next with numerous choices for foot holds. The crack takes gear anywhere you wish to place it so I always felt quite safe. There is one section along here where the chicken heads disappear and you have to use the crack for foot jams also.

I got the lead back at Library Ledge. The first ten feet or so above this point are the most difficult but then comes a return of that wonderful hand crack and foot hold studded face that makes this climb so much fun. To top it off, at the summit you are rewarded with some of the prettiest alpine vistas you could ever wish for. The decent is another matter. The trail off of this thing is steep and covered with small ball bearing like rocks and strewn with broken trees. But don’t let this thought spoil it for you – at least there is a walk off and you need not rappel.
Logistics
See A Climber’s Guide to Washington Rock by Don Brooks and David Whitelaw, Selected Climbs in the Cascades by Jim Nelson and Peter Potterfield, or Leavenworth Rock by Viktor Kramar. I think this is featured in the 50 most crowded climbs book too. Kramar has the best layup and Jim & Peter do the best description. If you were me, you would stay with my cousin in Leavenworth and try to get him to lead the hard pitches. But since even I can’t get him out to the rock these days, you might just cop a bivy at a campground in Icicle Canyon or even near the base of the climb. Please practice no trace etiquette. The KOA in Leavenworth is a great place to get an inexpensive shower later on.