Spam from Rooster Rock

Particulars
Rooster Rock, Columbia Gorge, Oregon

Difficulty: real easy with a pitch or so of 5.1 rock climbing.

Appeal: Despite its location, this basalt pinnacle is not climbed all that much. This is a great climb for the neophyte leader or the new climber or for anyone who appreciates a nice vantage point from which to admire the Columbia River Gorge.
Spam
I climbed this the first time with Tina. We were both pretty new to leading rock. I think I dorked up the lead somehow thus demonstrating how she could follow suit. One thing to keep in mind here: the freeway traffic can be a bit noisy so don’t expect real good communication with your climbing partner until you are both on the summit.

After having led several groups of neophytes up this rock, I can tell you that there are various odd peccadilloes that you can get ensnared in. Sometimes these things have the potential to turn dangerous. Like the time Sarah timidly began her rappel from the summit with a safety prussic tied above her belay device. She didn’t mind the prussic and when her feet slipped a little it did what it was supposed to and locked-up. She couldn’t seem to get her feet under her to get it released again. I rapped down to her on a separate rope, made a loop for her to stand on, and then helped her loosen the prussic and be on her way again. Once she was down, I just transferred my belay device to her rope and pulled the one I came down on and followed her down.

That wasn’t too bad but what about the time Kathy froze with fright at Matt’s bolt. She seemed fine as I led to the top but then she refused to leave the security of the bolt and follow my lead on up. I tied my end to the anchor and then using a prussic, used the rope as a fixed line. I got Kathy attached to the fixed line with a prussic too but she couldn’t get her feet to move to climb even with me next to her encouraging her. Finally, I had to attach her to the bolt again, climb my fixed line to free it, rappel back to her position and then rig an assisted rappel to get her down. She was practically screaming the whole way until I pointed out that her feet were once more on the trail. She did buy me a beer afterwards but clearly had the idea that hanging out with me would mean climbing and she knew she didn’t want any more of that. That’s my story. I’m sticking to it.
Logistics
The best way to do this is to drive east on I-84 from Portland, Oregon past Rooster Rock and take the Rooster Rock State Park exit. Now, get back on the freeway heading west and park off to the side just before the guardrail begins. Hike along the guardrail to the west side of Rooster Rock then turn right into the tall grass and head straight for the base of the rock. You should encounter a climber’s trail that will lead you to a big tree at the base of the rock. This is where you rope up. The fist little bit is just some scrambling over mossy, blocky basalt up to a face with a bolt. Matt put the bolt there. He told me so. Thank you, Matt. I suggest setting an anchor here and starting the real first pitch from this point. Climb up and right following a broken gutter up to a spiny point. Turn left and keep going, the summit is only ten feet away. Set the belay and bring up everyone else you brought with you.

Hang out and enjoy the Gorge views for a while. That is why you came here, anyway. When you get ready to leave, set a double rope rappel from the chains. You should use 60m ropes. Please remember to tie knots in the end of your ropes too.